The Colors of Loom: Weaving with Cirila and Cozamalotl

On the foothills of the Popocatépetl Volcano, a tradition of backstrap loom weaving continues through the hands of Cirila Aragón Cortés and her family. In the town of Hueyapan Morelos, in Central Mexico, women used to get a basket full of wool when they got married so that they could make a gaban (poncho) for their husband just as their mothers had taught them. Cirilia noticed that through the generations, the craft was getting lost so she, along with her daughter Margarita Torres, decided to do something about it, and so Cozamalotl was founded. 

Entering their workshop is a sensory journey. The air is filled with the scent of walnut husks boiling over a fire, followed by the soft hum of a spinning spindle, a long wooden piece with a heavy rock toward the bottom on a small clay bowl with a floral design.Your eyes are met with lines of colorful wool yarn, from deep blues and reds to vibrant greens and browns.

As we greeted all of the family members, we made our way into the kitchen where we first had a cup of coffee and pan dulce. This step is always a must before we can get down to "business". 

The Cozamalotl Collective, meaning “rainbow” in Náhuatl, works with indigenous women of various ages, three of them master weavers, including Cirilia, to keep the traditional techniques alive. This intergenerational bond is vital to ensuring the survival of their art and it all begins with the land; using dyes derived from flowers and nature such as cempasúchil, pericón, and grana cochinilla. The bright colors are a tribute to the blue skies, green forests, and blooming flowers of the mountains. Each textile is created with deep respect for nature and a commitment to preserving ancestral techniques. The process is labor-intensive, from dyeing the wool with natural pigments to weaving on inherited looms, each piece may take 1 to 2 months to finish. Every piece reflects her unparalleled craftsmanship and heart.

I feel so fortunate to have been able to watch Cirilia work on her backstrap loom, to experience Margarita’s detailed stitching as we asked her to make a gaban into a beautiful throw, and the youngest member of the collective, 10-year-old Abigail putting her warp together. And as I mentioned, everyone in the family helps out, the men help out with the natural dyeing process and Anastacio, Cirila’s husband was helping finish up a piece by completing the tassels on a rebozo. 

Lastly, as we were making our way out, full of gratitude for our time with the family and with our hands full of beautiful wool pieces for the shop, the family gifted us avocados and limes from their field - truly a visit to remember. 

I hope you enjoy these pieces as much as I do, including a special wool rebozo made by Cirila in the most gorgeous blues and browns.